Solid Conditioner Bars 6 x 35 gram bars
130g BTMS-50 (conditioning emulsifying wax)
10g kokum butter (moisturizer promotes hair growth)
22g cetyl alcohol (helps thicken and with spreadability)
10g shea butter (moisturizer and softens frizzies)
Cool Down Phase
10g hydrolized honey protein (penetrates hair to provide moisture, shine, and luster. Improves wet-combability, reduces static buildup when dry combing.
24g panthenol powder (dilute in a little water) (forms a smooth film over hair cuticles that enhance light reflection and makes tresses look shinier and glossier)
4g aloe juice (natural keratin aid to balance ph)
4g hydrolized baobab protein (a great silicone replacement)
1g vitamin E oil (use the naturally derived kind) (helps with hair growth & hair loss)
4g hydrolized silk protein (improves elasticity, resiliency, and restores the moisture balance)
1g optiphen plus (or another broad-spectrum preservative of choice at the recommended usage rate, as water will be introduced with usage, it is required)
1/2 to 1 tsp scent
Weigh the heated phase ingredients into a small saucepan, and melt everything together over low medium heat. The temperature does not need to exceed 70C. (invest in a laser thermometer, it is well worth it). Do not let it overheat. This takes approx 12 minutes. We let some of the last bits melt within the warm mixture by removing from the heat. If the mixture cools below 61C, the cool phase will bring up the temperature and start to harden your mixture. It can be reheated if required but is not recommended so as to not degrade any of your cooldown ingredients.
While the heated phase is melting, weigh all the cool down phase ingredients into a small container.
Add the cool phase to the heated phase and mix until combined. Your mixture will start to thicken and may want to work fast so as to have nice uniform bars. Pour into your mold and put into the fridge for 15 minutes or so. Let the bars sit for 24 hours.
Rub the bar in your hands at first then onto your wet hair. It will feel soft and silky, unlike a shampoo bar. Rinse and hand dry your hair. As the conditioning is so high, color treated hair can benefit.
- The BTMS can be 50% 25 and 50% 50. Not recommended to use 100% BTMS 25 as the 50 is more conditioning
- If you don’t have kokum butter, you can use cocoa butter instead.
- It is not recommended to use other emulsifying waxes as they lack conditioning that hair needs.
- Cetyl alcohol thickens and helps with a silky glide, unlike stearic acid that can be draggy.
- You can omit the panthenol & hydrolyzed proteins but make it up in your BTMS
Essential Oil Ideas
Bergamot can be of great benefit to thin, dry hair that breaks. It increases shine & can help make a protective barrier if you style your hair with heat. If you have curly or frizzy hair try this Citrusy essential oil.
Rosemary is great for thickening hair. It can help prevent baldness, slow the graying process and treating dandruff and dry scalp.
Chamomile essential oil is a great essential oil for hair because it adds shine and softness to your hair while soothing your scalp. It can be used to lighten your hair naturally.
Cedarwood essential oil can also help to reduce skin irritations and repel bugs, which can be beneficial on summer nights when you’re spending time outdoors
Lemongrass essential oil has healing properties, and it works as an effective cleanser and deodorizer. It can strengthen your hair follicles and soothe an itchy and irritated scalp.
Peppermint essential oil helps to stimulate the scalp, and it can treat dandruff and even lice due to its powerful antiseptic properties. It also stimulates hair growth. Caution: Don’t over do it, as it is a very strong essential oil