Gentle Solid Shampoo Bars: Yields 2 x 80g bars

 

There has been some talk about solid shampoo bars having high PH which is not particularly good for hair.  A nice, PH balanced shampoo will keep your hair and scalp in good condition.  It is all about the chosen surfactants.

Benefits of our Solid Shampoo (Syndet)

  • Ease of travel
  • Gentle and silky
  • Easy to make
  • Low PH

The word “syndet” is derived from “synthetic” combined with “detergent”. Technically it refers to the binding that occurs between different detergents, also called surfactants. These detergents, which have an affinity for oils and repel water, surround dirt with small structures that are then removed by water.

Gentle Solid Shampoo Bar Recipe Yield approx 300 grams 

1st Heated phase

1 3/4 tsp 1.7% Cocamidopropyl betaine (heat separately and add the panthenol powder if using it) Surfactant 
5.5 TB SCI 37.7% Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate gentle surfactant (crush up in a baggie if not using a powdered form)
2nd Heated Phase
1 3/4 tsp 3.4% Kokum butter. (if not using % melt to measure)  Moisturizer & conditioner
1 3/4 tsp 3.4% BTMS 50 Conditioning emulsifier
1 3/4 tsp 3.4% Cetyl Alcohol  emollient, emulsifier
1/4 cup plus 2 tsp 33.28% Lathanol SLSA, Sodium lauryl Sulfocete. Surfactant powder. 

Cool-down phase 

 

2 TB 13.7% Coco Symplex Mild surfactant

Optional

1 tsp 2.28% Panthenol powder  Humectant that helps give body & shine and detangling properties to hair. It can cause curly hair to frizz, however.  If you omit this, add this % to the SCI or SLSA (add to 1 heated phase.  Be careful to not let it burn)

1/2 tsp .57% scent  (more can be added depending on your choice of scent)

 Directions:

Melt your 1st heated phase over the stove at medium heat.  When melted add your 2nd heated phase and continue to heat until melted.

Mix in your cool down phase.

Allow to cool to 80 Degrees Celsius or less and mix in the Optiphen Plus, and scent, color (judge this and use sparingly) if using and combine.

Pour into your mold and allow to firm up. No need to cure or cover.  Can be used the next day.  Lather the bar in your hands at first, add to your wet hair and then use the bar directly on your hair for more lather.

Essential Oil Ideas

Bergamot can be of great benefit to thin, dry hair that breaks.  It increases shine & can help make a protective barrier if you style your hair with heat.  If you have curly or frizzy hair try this Citrusy essential oil.  
Rosemary is great for thickening hair. It can help prevent baldness, slow the graying process and treating dandruff and dry scalp.
Chamomile essential oil is a great essential oil for hair because it adds shine and softness to your hair while soothing your scalp.  It can be used to lighten your hair naturally. 
Cedarwood essential oil can also help to reduce skin irritations and repel bugs, which can be beneficial on summer nights when you’re spending time outdoors
Lemongrass essential oil has healing properties, and it works as an effective cleanser and deodorizer. It can strengthen your hair follicles and soothe an itchy and irritated scalp. 
Peppermint oil helps to stimulate the scalp, and it can treat dandruff and even lice due to its powerful antiseptic properties.  It also stimulates hair growth.  Caution:  Don’t over do it, as it is a very strong essential oil

Soap Dough

Soap dough is so easy to create for cp soapers who already know how to make cold process soap.  Simply use a 5% superfat and your water at 2.5 times your lye. If a softer dough is desired, use 3 times water to lye. This soap does not go through gel phase. Put your recipe through the soap calculator.

Once the soap comes to a light trace, divide it into how many colors you wish and add your color and stir until there are no clumps.  Store in plastic cups with lids or plastic wrap.

Do not let air touch your soap dough when storing.  You can wrap in plastic wrap and put into bags upon unmolding.

The fun begins when molding your own creations such as small owls, flowers, bird nests or anything to embellish your soap. Small cookie cutters can also be used.

soap dough (2)

Aleppo CP Soap

Aleppo CP Soap

Let's Make Body Care that is good for you!

Allepo soap has been around for centuries.  It is crafted with Laurel Fruit Oil land Olive Oil.  The Laurel fruit oil lends not only a distinct aroma but a beautiful earthy green color to the soap. As there are no lathering or hard oils in this gem, (ie coconut) it has a different feel to it.  As a test, I used it 2 months into the cure.  It was hard and silky with very little lather.  It will get better after 4 or so months more curing time.  I was impressed on how it came to trace so quickly.  Also how hard it is after 2 months.

I decided to only use 20% Laurel Fruit Oil and 80% Extra Virgin Olive Oil.  Too much Laurel Fruit oil would intensify the smell.

As you can see this is a moisturizing bar with 78 value.  There is no water discount.  Even though…

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Aleppo CP Soap

Aleppo CP Soap

Allepo soap has been around for centuries.  It is crafted with Laurel Fruit Oil land Olive Oil.  The Laurel fruit oil lends not only a distinct aroma but a beautiful earthy green color to the soap. As there are no lathering or hard oils in this gem, (ie coconut) it has a different feel to it.  As a test, I used it 2 months into the cure.  It was hard and silky with very little lather.  It will get better after 4 or so months more curing time.  I was impressed on how it came to trace so quickly.  Also how hard it is after 2 months.

I decided to only use 20% Laurel Fruit Oil and 80% Extra Virgin Olive Oil.  Too much Laurel Fruit oil would intensify the smell.

As you can see this is a moisturizing bar with 78 value.  There is no water discount.  Even though the soap calculator indicates this is not a hard bar, I disagree.  The INS number is not what I like to work with but went with it.  What a wonderful bar.  Don’t forget to wash your soap while still in the loaf mold for a nice shiny top.

Water as percent of oil weight 38.00 %
Soap Bar Quality Range Your Recipe
Hardness 29 – 54 22
Cleansing 12 – 22 5
Conditioning 44 – 69 78
Bubbly 14 – 46 5
Creamy 16 – 48 17
Iodine 41 – 70 82
INS 136 – 165 108

Here is my 4-pound recipe using soapcalc

# Oil/Fat % Pounds Ounces Grams
1 Laurel Fruit Oil 20.00 0.800 12.80 362.87
2 Olive Oil pomace 80.00 3.200 51.20 1,451.49
Totals NaN 4.000 64.00 1,814.37

 

Natural Silicone Replacement

Want thicker healthier hair that feels great without using damaging silicones in your hair care products.  Give this product a try.  Guaranteed to help.

Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed is produced from the seeds of Adansonia digitata, the upside down tree from Africa.

Silicone builds up on the hair and is very difficult to wash out.  It coats the hair and will not allow nutrients to enter therefore weighting the hair down.  Do your own search on google to see how damaging silicones can be to hair. It can be washed out with a high foaming surfactant however that too can be damaging.

Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed offers one of the most powerful hair repair complexes among all of the vegetable proteins.  With its unique combination of hair loving amino acids, especially Cysteine, Methionine, and Phenylalanine which combined offer exceptional damage recovery, conditioning, and nourishment for improved overall hair care performance. When choosing a single protein for hair repair, and resilience, Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed is the best there is.  Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed is high enough in the conditioning amino acids to offer conditioning performance that is comparable to the silicones.

With Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed hair will look and feel softer, and will be smoother, even when subjected to harsh chemical treatments and excessive environmental stress due to the high level of conditioning amino acids.

Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed is the perfect choice for all of your hair conditioners, leave on treatments, pre-blow drying or pre-flat iron treatments & hair repair systems due to the high levels of protective amino acids.

Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed offers excellent flowing benefits to hair due to the high level of nourishing and strengthening, amino acids which improve elasticity and increase hair strength.

TIP:  Remove glycerin from your formula to avoid frizziness 

ATTRIBUTES

  • frizz control
  • helps to repair damage
  • improved manageability
  • nourishing from root to tip
  • imparts conditioning benefits
  • increased strength and elasticity
  • botanical alternative to Dimethicone
  • protection from environmental stress
  • leaves hair softer, stronger, smoother

APPLICATIONS

  • Hair Care
    • Shampoos
    • Conditioners
    • Styling Aids
    • Prep Treatments
      • heat protection
        • blow drying
        • dryer treatments
        • curling / flat irons
    • Leave On Treatments
    • Protein Packs
    • Curly Hair Protection
    • Pre – Post Chemical Treatments
Superfatting in hand made soap

Superfatting in hand made soap

Superfatting soap is done to obtain a more gentle, extra moisturizing silky smoother feel to your soaps.

It used to be superfatting was achieved when extra oil above your basic recipe (use soapcalc.net ) was added at trace.

Superfatting soap is when oils are left unsaponified in the finished bars 

Now we have sophisticated tools online such as soapcalc.net.   

Whether you add the 40 grams of Castor oil at the beginning or at trace will not change the amount of superfat you have in your recipe.

Superfat is the amount of leftover oil after the lye has saponified completely. Saponification continues to take place after you have poured your soap into the mold. If there is lye still unsaponified when you add your castor oil at trace, the lye will find it and turn it into soap.

SAP values represent the amount of lye needed to saponify a given amount of oil. This has been figured out by soap calculators on line for you already and will not change by adding the castor oil in later.

When you enter the superfat amount into Soapcalc, the program will reduce the amount of lye needed which then leaves your soap with 5% unsaponifed oil. Setting the amount in Soapcalc is all you have to do.

An alternative method is to use a recipe that you have plugged into your soap calculator with to superfat and just add 2% of any sofy or melted hard oil, consider a nice oil that lends to great properties like hemp.  Remember to mix it well.

 

Welcome to Soap and More’s Blog!

Notes from Wai Pheng

 Scented it with Neroli, Jasmine, Rose fragrances & Patchouli essential oil.  I really like the scent – very floral and I don’t often make floral scents.  I just kind of layered the soap in no specific order throughout using the new micas/oxide that I’d purchased from Soap & More on Thurs ie teal oxide, yellow mica, Ruby gem mica, pink oxide & the amethyst mica which turned out more gray I think.  Also did a couple of swirls to finish off the effect along with mountain peaks (have to keep practising this technique!) & topped it off with white diamonds mica.