Makes 2 x 50 gram bars
4.5 TB (50 grams – 67%) BTMS-50
1 TB(10 grams – 5.2%) kokum butter
2.5 TB (25 grams – 1.13%) cetyl alcohol
1 TB (10 grams – 5.2%) shea butter
1 tsp (4 grams 2.1%) black cumin oil
Cool Down Phase
1/2 tsp (1 gram – 1%) hydrolyzed honey protein
1/2 tsp (1 gram -2.1%) panthenol powder (dilute in some water)
½ tsp (4 grams -.01%) aloe juice
1 1/2 tsp (1 gram – 1%) hydrolyzed baobab protein
¼ tsp (1 gram .05%) vitamin E oil
1/2 tsp (1 gram – 1%) hydrolyzed silk protein
1/8 tsp (1-gram – .05%) optiphen plus
1/2 to 1 tsp (50-60 drops) (2 grams – .010%)scent
- Weigh/Measure your cooldown ingredients and set aside for future use.
- Weigh/measure the heated phase ingredients into a small saucepan and melt everything together over low medium heat. The temperature should not need to exceed 70C. (invest in a laser thermometer, it is well worth it). This takes around 12 minutes. Let some of the last bits melt within the warm mixture by removing from the heat and stirring.
- If the mixture cools below 61C, the cool phase will bring down the temperature further and start to harden your mixture. It can be reheated gently if required. At low heat only as to not degrade any of your cooldown ingredients.
- Add the cool phase to the heated phase and mix until combined. Your mixture will start to thicken, so you want to work fast to have nice uniform bars.
- Pour into your mold and put into the freezer for 1 hour. Remove from your mold and let the bars sit for 24 to 48 hours to allow any excess moisture to evaporate. If you do not find the time to remove from the mold right away, no worries as they can be left there indefinitely. They should be solid when you pop them out of the molds. Store them in a cool dry place.
To Use: Rub the bar in your hands at first then onto wet hair. It will feel soft and silky, unlike a shampoo bar. Rinse and hand dry your hair. As the conditioning is so high, color treated hair can benefit.
- For oily hair: The BTMS can be 50% 25 and 50% 50. Not recommended to use 100% BTMS 25 as the 50 is more conditioning, however, oily hair can handle less BTMS 50
- If you don’t have kokum butter, you can use cocoa butter instead.
- It is not recommended to use other emulsifying waxes as they lack conditioning that hair needs.
- Cetyl alcohol thickens and helps with a silky glide, unlike stearic acid that can be draggy. That does not mean stearic acid cannot be used.
- You can omit the panthenol & hydrolyzed proteins but make it up in your BTMS
- Dandruff prone scalps can benefit when using black cumin oil however it can be substituted with shea butter. Keep in mind there is a slight cumin scent to this wonderful oil.
Aloe Juice – natural keratin to balance ph and helps with an itchy scalp. Limit concentration to .05% as aloe cleanses the hair follicle efficiently by stripping off extra sebum (oil) and residue from other hair products.
BTMS-50 ( and BTMS 25)-conditioning emulsifying wax
Kokum butter -moisturizer promotes hair growth
Cetyl alcohol –helps thicken and with spreadability
Shea butter -moisturizes and softens frizzies
Black cumin seed oil -anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, antibacterial
Hydrolyzed honey protein –penetrates hair to provide moisture, shine, and luster. Improves wet-combability, reduces static buildup when dry combing. Vegans can skip this with no issues in the final product.
Panthenol powder –forms a smooth film over hair cuticles that enhance light reflection and makes tresses look shinier and glossier. A humectant that helps give body & shine and detangling properties to hair. It can cause curly hair to frizz, however
Hydrolyzed baobab protein (or quinoa protein) -a great silicone replacement
Vitamin E oil -Use the naturally derived kind. helps with hair growth & hair loss
Hydrolyzed silk protein -improves elasticity, resiliency, and restores the moisture balance) If you are vegan, skip this ingredient
Optiphen plus -broad-spectrum preservative
Essential Oil Ideas
Bergamot can be of great benefit to thin, dry hair that breaks. It increases shine & can help make a protective barrier if you style your hair with heat. If you have curly or frizzy hair try this Citrusy essential oil.
Rosemary is great for thickening hair. It can help prevent baldness, slow the graying process and treating dandruff and dry scalp.
Chamomile essential oil is a great essential oil for hair because it adds shine and softness to your hair while soothing your scalp. It can be used to lighten your hair naturally.
Cedarwood essential oil can also help to reduce skin irritations and repel bugs, which can be beneficial on summer nights when you’re spending time outdoors
Lemongrass essential oil has healing properties, and it works as an effective cleanser and deodorizer. It can strengthen your hair follicles and soothe an itchy and irritated scalp.
Peppermint essential oil helps to stimulate the scalp, and it can treat dandruff and even lice due to its powerful antiseptic properties. It also stimulates hair growth. Caution: Don’t over do it, as it is a very strong essential oil