Recipes

Lip Gloss Stain

Fall is here just in time to highlight our lip gloss tubes with wand applicator.  Here is a simple formula to try at home with just a few ingredients:

96% soft oil of your choice.  (can be combined with several oils)

1% Cera Bellina wax (subst with regular beeswax)

1% Vitamin E oil 

*1% flavor( ensure is it oil based)

1% Mica or lake color of your choice (quantity depends on the color and intensity of the desired shade)

Melt the wax and oil at low heat on top of the stove in a small stainless steel measuring cup.  Keep your pot small for small recipes.  We used 1/4 cup for 2 x 11ml size lip gloss tubes. Remove from the heat and add your color and flavor, stir until totally combined.  The mixture will still be warm and can be poured within 1 or 2 minutes.   This recipe is not for lip balm roll-up tubes.  It has a much looser viscosity created especially for lip gloss tubes with wand applicator.

We used Abyssinian seed oil due to its comedogenic rating of 1 which signifies a very low chance of skin irritations.  It is a  very rich super light oil with no noticeable odor or flavor which does not interfere with the final product.

Shade test:  to see if you are happy with the color, take some and spread it onto a paper towel.  If it is not too hot, try some on the back of your hand.  Add more color if required.

*Cautionary note.  If using essential oils for flavor, do your homework.  Some essential oils can burn your lips with very little quantity.  Ones that come to mind:  peppermint, cinnamon & clove

Difference between Cera Bellina and regular beeswax are: Cera Bellina has more of a  satin-like feel on the skin,  less graininess or rice granule effects when using shea and other natural butters in anhydrous formulations., it  also helps to break up pigment cluster and by forming a gel network to maintain an even distribution of ingredients.

Recipes, Uncategorized

Solid Hair Conditioner

conditioning bar ingredients.png Makes 2 x 50 gram bars

conditioning bar heated phase.pngconditioner bar melted phase

Heated Phase
4.5 TB (50 grams – 67%) BTMS-50 
1 TB(10 grams – 5.2%) kokum butter 
2.5 TB (25 grams – 1.13%) cetyl alcohol 
1 TB (10 grams – 5.2%) shea butter 
1 tsp (4 grams 2.1%) black cumin oil

conditioner bar cool down phase

Cool Down Phase
1/2 tsp (1 gram – 1%) hydrolyzed honey protein                                             

1/2 tsp (1 gram -2.1%) panthenol powder (dilute in some water)                     

½ tsp (4 grams -.01%) aloe juice                                                                              

1/2 tsp (1 gram – 1%) hydrolyzed baobab protein                                           

¼ tsp (1 gram .05%) vitamin E oil                                                                         

1/2 tsp (1 gram – 1%) hydrolyzed silk protein                               

1/8 tsp (1-gram – .05%) optiphen plus                                                                       

1/2 to 1 tsp (50-60 drops) (2 grams – .010%)scent  

  • Weigh/Measure your cooldown ingredients and set aside for future use.
  • Weigh/measure the heated phase ingredients into a small saucepan and melt everything together over low medium heat. The temperature should not need to exceed 70C. (invest in a laser thermometer, it is well worth it).  This takes around 12 minutes. Let some of the last bits melt within the warm mixture by removing from the heat and stirring. 
  • If the mixture cools below 61C, the cool phase will bring down the temperature further and start to harden your mixture. It can be reheated gently if required. At low heat only as to not degrade any of your cooldown ingredients.
  • Add the cool phase to the heated phase and mix until combined. Your mixture will start to thicken, so you want to work fast to have nice uniform bars. 
  • Pour into your mold and put into the freezer for 1 hour. Remove from your mold and let the bars sit for 24 to 48 hours to allow any excess moisture to evaporate.  If you do not find the time to remove from the mold right away, no worries as they can be left there indefinitely. They should be solid when you pop them out of the molds.  Store them in a cool dry place.

To Use: Rub the bar in your hands at first then onto wet hair. It will feel soft and silky, unlike a shampoo bar. Rinse and hand dry your hair.  As the conditioning is so high, color treated hair can benefit. 

Substitutions

  • For oily hair:  The BTMS can be 50% 25 and 50% 50.  Not recommended to use 100% BTMS 25 as the 50 is more conditioning, however, oily hair can handle less BTMS 50
  • If you don’t have kokum butter, you can use cocoa butter instead. 
  • It is not recommended to use other emulsifying waxes as they lack conditioning that hair needs. 
  • Cetyl alcohol thickens and helps with a silky glide, unlike stearic acid that can be draggy. That does not mean stearic acid cannot be used.
  • You can omit the panthenol & hydrolyzed proteins but make it up in your BTMS
  • Dandruff prone scalps can benefit when using black cumin oil however it can be substituted with shea butter. Keep in mind there is a slight cumin scent to this wonderful oil.

Ingredient properties:

Aloe Juice – natural keratin to balance ph and helps with an itchy scalp.  Limit concentration to .05%  as aloe cleanses the hair follicle efficiently by stripping off extra sebum (oil) and residue from other hair products.

BTMS-50 ( and BTMS 25)-conditioning emulsifying wax

Kokum butter -moisturizer promotes hair growth

Cetyl alcohol –helps thicken and with spreadability

Shea butter -moisturizes and softens frizzies

Black cumin seed oil -anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, antibacterial

Hydrolyzed honey protein –penetrates hair to provide moisture, shine, and luster. Improves wet-combability, reduces static buildup when dry combing. Vegans can skip this with no issues in the final product.

Panthenol powder –forms a smooth film over hair cuticles that enhance light reflection and makes tresses look shinier and glossier. A humectant that helps give body & shine and detangling properties to hair. It can cause curly hair to frizz, however

Hydrolyzed baobab protein (or quinoa protein) -a great silicone replacement

Vitamin E oil -Use the naturally derived kind. helps with hair growth & hair loss

Hydrolyzed silk protein -improves elasticity, resiliency, and restores the moisture balance) If you are vegan, skip this ingredient

Optiphen plus -broad-spectrum preservative  

Essential Oil Ideas

Bergamot can be of great benefit to thin, dry hair that breaks.  It increases shine & can help make a protective barrier if you style your hair with heat.  If you have curly or frizzy hair try this Citrusy essential oil.  
Rosemary is great for thickening hair. It can help prevent baldness, slow the graying process and treating dandruff and dry scalp.
Chamomile essential oil is a great essential oil for hair because it adds shine and softness to your hair while soothing your scalp.  It can be used to lighten your hair naturally. 
Cedarwood essential oil can also help to reduce skin irritations and repel bugs, which can be beneficial on summer nights when you’re spending time outdoors
Lemongrass essential oil has healing properties, and it works as an effective cleanser and deodorizer. It can strengthen your hair follicles and soothe an itchy and irritated scalp. 
Peppermint essential oil helps to stimulate the scalp, and it can treat dandruff and even lice due to its powerful antiseptic properties.  It also stimulates hair growth.  Caution:  Don’t over do it, as it is a very strong essential oil

conditioner bars solid

 

Recipes, Soap Recipes

Jelly Soap (Vegan)

Jelly soaps are so much fun and kids love them. They are jiggly, sparkly soapy fun!

  jelly soap

FORMULA

225 ml  glycerin
1 TB  carrageenan iota powder
200 ml distilled/purified water
25 grams Lanthanol

Cool down phase ingredients:
25ml  Cocamidopropyl Betaine 
1 tsp optiphen (the very high % of glycerin contributes greatly to preservation in this formula)
1 tsp fractionated coconut oil or almond oil or rice bran oil
1/4 tsp essential oil or fragrance oil
1/8 tsp color powder in 1 tsp water and stir until combined

Important tips:

If the recipe does not set add 10% more carrageenan.  (Another reason why the shower jelly may not harden could be the mix was not heated to a sufficiently high temperature).

  • To color, use dilute your powdered colorant in water.  Micas add sparkle to your creation.
  • hand stirring can be used.   (A stick blender will create lots of foam).

Process:

  1. In an empty container add the glycerin
  2. Add the carrageenan into the glycerin and mix well
  3. In a separate pan add distilled or deionized water and heat
  4. Add the lanthanol into the water whilst mixing and heating using a stick blender
  5. Add the carrageenan/glycerin mix to the lanthanol/water mix and heat to 200°F/95°C.
  6. In a separate container combine the cool down phase ingredients, which are: optiphen, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, oil, fragrance
  7. Let the heated mixture cool to below 140°F/60°C and before it starts to gel, add color and stir
  8. Add the cool down phase ingredients, stir
  9. Pour into preferable silicone molds or an ice cube mold
  10. Let the shower jelly cool and set before unmoulding
  11. Have fun!
Recipes, Soap Recipes

Gentle Solid Shampoo Bars: Yields 2 x 80g bars

 

There has been some talk about solid shampoo bars having high PH which is not particularly good for hair.  A nice, PH balanced shampoo will keep your hair and scalp in good condition.  It is all about the chosen surfactants.

We will keep updating and adding great information for changing up the formula for an enhanced finished product.

Benefits of our Solid Shampoo (Syndet)

  • Ease of travel
  • Gentle and silky
  • Easy to make
  • Low PH

The word “syndet” is derived from “synthetic” combined with “detergent”. Technically it refers to the binding that occurs between different detergents, also called surfactants. These detergents, which have an affinity for oils and repel water, surround dirt with small structures that are then removed by water.

Gentle Solid Shampoo Bar Recipe Yield approx 300 grams 

1st Heated phase

1 3/4 tsp 1.7% Cocamidopropyl betaine (heat separately and add the panthenol powder if using it) Surfactant 
5.5 TB SCI 37.7% Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate gentle surfactant (crush up in a baggie if not using a powdered form.  Melting is preferred to pressing your surfactant. 
2nd Heated Phase
1 3/4 tsp 3.4% Kokum butter. (if using volume and not % melt to measure)  Moisturizer & conditioner
1 3/4 tsp 3.4% BTMS 50 Conditioning emulsifier or BTMS 25 Conditioning emulsifier 
1  tsp 1.9% Cetyl Alcohol  emollient, emulsifier

3/4 tsp 1.5% protein of choice (Hydrolyzed Silk or Baobab Protein)  improves elasticity, resiliency, and restore the moisture balance for smoother and softer hair.

1/4 cup plus 2 tsp 33.28% Lathanol SLSA, Sodium lauryl Sulfocete. Surfactant powder for foam. 

Cool-down phase 

2 TB 13.7% Coco Symplex Mild surfactant can be substituted with coco glucoside, Amphosol CG, BSB or Bio-Terge  

Optional

1 tsp 2.28% Panthenol powder  Humectant that helps give body & shine and detangling properties to hair. It can cause curly hair to frizz, however.  If you omit this, add this % to the SCI or SLSA (add to 1 heated phase.  Be careful to not let it burn)

1/2 tsp .57% scent  (more can be added depending on your choice of scent)

Optional: Water soluble dye or micas for color

 Directions:

Melt your 1st heated phase over the stove at medium heat.  At the same time in a separate vessel heat, your 2nd heated phase by totally melting the kokum butter then add remainder of the 2nd heated phase and continue to heat until melted. Combine both heated phases mix well and remove from the heat.  If you find the 1st heated phase needs more moisture, multiply the Cocamidopropyl betaine by up to 3 times.  It may take your final bar longer to harden.

Mix in your cool down phase.  If adding color, this is the time.  

Allow to cool to 80 Degrees Celsius or less and mix in the Optiphen Plus, and scent, color (judge this and use sparingly) if using and combine.

Press tightly into your mold and allow to firm up. (Not a smooth batter so beware) Your mold can be placed in the freezer for a couple of hours.  No need to cure or cover.  Can be used after 24 hours.  Lather the bar in your hands at first, add to your wet hair and then use the bar directly on your hair for more lather.

Essential Oil Ideas

Bergamot can be of great benefit to thin, dry hair that breaks.  It increases shine & can help make a protective barrier if you style your hair with heat.  If you have curly or frizzy hair try this Citrusy essential oil.  
Rosemary is great for thickening hair. It can help prevent baldness, slow the graying process and treating dandruff and dry scalp.
Chamomile essential oil is a great essential oil for hair because it adds shine and softness to your hair while soothing your scalp.  It can be used to lighten your hair naturally. 
Cedarwood essential oil can also help to reduce skin irritations and repel bugs, which can be beneficial on summer nights when you’re spending time outdoors
Lemongrass essential oil has healing properties, and it works as an effective cleanser and deodorizer. It can strengthen your hair follicles and soothe an itchy and irritated scalp. 
Peppermint essential oil helps to stimulate the scalp, and it can treat dandruff and even lice due to its powerful antiseptic properties.  It also stimulates hair growth.  Caution:  Don’t over do it, as it is a very strong essential oil
Recipes, Soap Recipes

Soap Dough

Soap dough is so easy to create for cp soapers who already know how to make cold process soap.  Simply use a 5% superfat and your water at 2.5 times your lye. If a softer dough is desired, use 3 times water to lye. This soap does not go through gel phase. Put your recipe through the soap calculator.

Once the soap comes to a light trace, divide it into how many colors you wish and add your color and stir until there are no clumps.  Store in plastic cups with lids or plastic wrap.

Do not let air touch your soap dough when storing.  You can wrap in plastic wrap and put into bags upon unmolding.

The fun begins when molding your own creations such as small owls, flowers, bird nests or anything to embellish your soap. Small cookie cutters can also be used.

soap dough (2)

Recipes, Soap Recipes

Aleppo CP Soap

Allepo soap has been around for centuries.  It is crafted with Laurel Fruit Oil land Olive Oil.  The Laurel fruit oil lends not only a distinct aroma but a beautiful earthy green color to the soap. As there are no lathering or hard oils in this gem, (ie coconut) it has a different feel to it.  As a test, I used it 2 months into the cure.  It was hard and silky with very little lather.  It will get better after 4 or so months more curing time.  I was impressed on how it came to trace so quickly.  Also how hard it is after 2 months.

I decided to only use 20% Laurel Fruit Oil and 80% Extra Virgin Olive Oil.  Too much Laurel Fruit oil would intensify the smell.

As you can see this is a moisturizing bar with 78 value.  There is no water discount.  Even though the soap calculator indicates this is not a hard bar, I disagree.  The INS number is not what I like to work with but went with it.  What a wonderful bar.  Don’t forget to wash your soap while still in the loaf mold for a nice shiny top.

Water as percent of oil weight 38.00 %
Soap Bar Quality Range Your Recipe
Hardness 29 – 54 22
Cleansing 12 – 22 5
Conditioning 44 – 69 78
Bubbly 14 – 46 5
Creamy 16 – 48 17
Iodine 41 – 70 82
INS 136 – 165 108

Here is my 4-pound recipe using soapcalc

# Oil/Fat % Pounds Ounces Grams
1 Laurel Fruit Oil 20.00 0.800 12.80 362.87
2 Olive Oil pomace 80.00 3.200 51.20 1,451.49
Totals NaN 4.000 64.00 1,814.37