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DIY Clay Masks

The beauty of a DIY (Do It Yourself)is that it gives you the freedom to use the most powerful, yet simplest pure ingredients on earth or to mix and match them your other favorite ingredients you may have at home to make and build a skincare routine that best fits your needs.

  • Simply chosen clay with Water until it is smooth in texture and apply it to your skin. Leave it on for 10 minutes to get the maximum benefits.
  • Use it as the first step to build your DIY recipe, mix it with one of your oils or plant-based hydrosols for additional anti-aging and calming benefits to the skin.  Try adding some green tea powder, honey, yogourt, whipped egg whites or mayonnaise.
  • Add your favorite exfoliator or add some fine salt or sugar with your oil for the perfect anti-oxidant, environmentally friendly scrub.
  • It is not recommended to prepackage your masks as the addition of water-based ingredients will require a preservative.
French Green Clay is highly efficient at drawing oils and toxins from the skin, therefore use this clay for oily skin and hair types. Limit to 1 application per week. Do not use for sensitive or dry skin types.
Rhassoul Clay’s most impressive properties in skin improvement are its capacity of absorption due to its high level of absorption & silky texture. Studies have shown that it is reputed to reduce dryness and flakiness, improve skin clarity and elasticity. It contains a higher percentage of silica, magnesium, potassium, and calcium than other clays. Despite its powerful absorbing properties, rhassoul also works for dry and sensitive skin. 

Kaolin clay (China, Lion or white clay) is the mildest of all clays and is used in cosmetic masks and soaps for sensitive skin as well as dry skin. It does not expand with increasing water content.

Rose clay or pink clay is a mild clay which will gently cleanse and exfoliate the skin. Pink Kaolin Clay does not draw oils from the skin and can, therefore, be used on dry skin types.  A facial mask may be used once a week to draw out toxins and impurities from the skin.

French red clay: Unlike some cosmetic clays, red clay moisturizes well and will not easily dry out your skin. Probably not the best skin care clay for oily skin types (use French green clay for that), but it is great for those who suffer from dry skin conditions.

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Dry Shampoo

INGREDIENTS:

  • 87.5% Arrowroot powder
  • 5% Modified tapioca starch
  •  .05%  Lavender essential oil & Peppermint essential oil
  • 1% Pentsia powder as a texture enhancer
  • 1% Silica microspheres for a silky feel and oil absorber
  • 5% Bentonite clay for very oily hair

Directions:

  1. Blend all ingredients together. Use a powder spray bottle to easily distribute on your scalp and roots.  Try and apply evenly.
  2. Allow the product to sit for a couple of minutes.
  3. Once it has had a few minutes to work into the hair and roots, comb or blow-dry it to help it blend well.
  4. If the last 3 ingredients are not available, switch out with the arrowroot powder.
Recipes, Uncategorized

Solid Hair Conditioner

conditioning bar ingredients.png Makes 2 x 50 gram bars

conditioning bar heated phase.pngconditioner bar melted phase

Heated Phase
4.5 TB (50 grams – 67%) BTMS-50 
1 TB(10 grams – 5.2%) kokum butter 
2.5 TB (25 grams – 1.13%) cetyl alcohol 
1 TB (10 grams – 5.2%) shea butter 
1 tsp (4 grams 2.1%) black cumin oil

conditioner bar cool down phase

Cool Down Phase
1/2 tsp (1 gram – 1%) hydrolyzed honey protein                                             

1/2 tsp (1 gram -2.1%) panthenol powder (dilute in some water)                     

½ tsp (4 grams -.01%) aloe juice                                                                              

1/2 tsp (1 gram – 1%) hydrolyzed baobab protein                                           

¼ tsp (1 gram .05%) vitamin E oil                                                                         

1/2 tsp (1 gram – 1%) hydrolyzed silk protein                               

1/8 tsp (1-gram – .05%) optiphen plus                                                                       

1/2 to 1 tsp (50-60 drops) (2 grams – .010%)scent  

  • Weigh/Measure your cooldown ingredients and set aside for future use.
  • Weigh/measure the heated phase ingredients into a small saucepan and melt everything together over low medium heat. The temperature should not need to exceed 70C. (invest in a laser thermometer, it is well worth it).  This takes around 12 minutes. Let some of the last bits melt within the warm mixture by removing from the heat and stirring. 
  • If the mixture cools below 61C, the cool phase will bring down the temperature further and start to harden your mixture. It can be reheated gently if required. At low heat only as to not degrade any of your cooldown ingredients.
  • Add the cool phase to the heated phase and mix until combined. Your mixture will start to thicken, so you want to work fast to have nice uniform bars. 
  • Pour into your mold and put into the freezer for 1 hour. Remove from your mold and let the bars sit for 24 to 48 hours to allow any excess moisture to evaporate.  If you do not find the time to remove from the mold right away, no worries as they can be left there indefinitely. They should be solid when you pop them out of the molds.  Store them in a cool dry place.

To Use: Rub the bar in your hands at first then onto wet hair. It will feel soft and silky, unlike a shampoo bar. Rinse and hand dry your hair.  As the conditioning is so high, color treated hair can benefit. 

Substitutions

  • For oily hair:  The BTMS can be 50% 25 and 50% 50.  Not recommended to use 100% BTMS 25 as the 50 is more conditioning, however, oily hair can handle less BTMS 50
  • If you don’t have kokum butter, you can use cocoa butter instead. 
  • It is not recommended to use other emulsifying waxes as they lack conditioning that hair needs. 
  • Cetyl alcohol thickens and helps with a silky glide, unlike stearic acid that can be draggy. That does not mean stearic acid cannot be used.
  • You can omit the panthenol & hydrolyzed proteins but make it up in your BTMS
  • Dandruff prone scalps can benefit when using black cumin oil however it can be substituted with shea butter. Keep in mind there is a slight cumin scent to this wonderful oil.

Ingredient properties:

Aloe Juice – natural keratin to balance ph and helps with an itchy scalp.  Limit concentration to .05%  as aloe cleanses the hair follicle efficiently by stripping off extra sebum (oil) and residue from other hair products.

BTMS-50 ( and BTMS 25)-conditioning emulsifying wax

Kokum butter -moisturizer promotes hair growth

Cetyl alcohol –helps thicken and with spreadability

Shea butter -moisturizes and softens frizzies

Black cumin seed oil -anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, antibacterial

Hydrolyzed honey protein –penetrates hair to provide moisture, shine, and luster. Improves wet-combability, reduces static buildup when dry combing. Vegans can skip this with no issues in the final product.

Panthenol powder –forms a smooth film over hair cuticles that enhance light reflection and makes tresses look shinier and glossier. A humectant that helps give body & shine and detangling properties to hair. It can cause curly hair to frizz, however

Hydrolyzed baobab protein (or quinoa protein) -a great silicone replacement

Vitamin E oil -Use the naturally derived kind. helps with hair growth & hair loss

Hydrolyzed silk protein -improves elasticity, resiliency, and restores the moisture balance) If you are vegan, skip this ingredient

Optiphen plus -broad-spectrum preservative  

Essential Oil Ideas

Bergamot can be of great benefit to thin, dry hair that breaks.  It increases shine & can help make a protective barrier if you style your hair with heat.  If you have curly or frizzy hair try this Citrusy essential oil.  
Rosemary is great for thickening hair. It can help prevent baldness, slow the graying process and treating dandruff and dry scalp.
Chamomile essential oil is a great essential oil for hair because it adds shine and softness to your hair while soothing your scalp.  It can be used to lighten your hair naturally. 
Cedarwood essential oil can also help to reduce skin irritations and repel bugs, which can be beneficial on summer nights when you’re spending time outdoors
Lemongrass essential oil has healing properties, and it works as an effective cleanser and deodorizer. It can strengthen your hair follicles and soothe an itchy and irritated scalp. 
Peppermint essential oil helps to stimulate the scalp, and it can treat dandruff and even lice due to its powerful antiseptic properties.  It also stimulates hair growth.  Caution:  Don’t over do it, as it is a very strong essential oil

conditioner bars solid

 

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Say No to Hydrogenated Oils in Body Care

Do we really want to use hydrogenated oils in skin care?   The hydrogenated oil process is basically heating oils to a very high temperature which renders them rancid.  The oils are then treated with hydrogen. Many manufacturers add a perfume to neutralize the smell. The oils then become thick and spreadable.  This practice increases the shelf life of the oils.

I question heating oils at such high-temperatures.  It removes all the great properties we look for in crafting natural high-end body care.  Professional crafters take such pride to stand above the big commercial cosmetic manufacturers, we may want to consider upping our game by using nonhydrogenated virgin unrefined oils.  How do crafters label their products when using hydrogenated I wonder?

It is my goal to use virgin, cold pressed, unrefined and if possible organic oils.  Using these lovely oils does come with some caveats.  Virgin oils can have a shorter shelf life and are often not a neutral color. They can have a smell of the plant where the oils come from.  If you can live with that, go for it.  Virgin oils can also be a little more costly.

Coffee Butter  Non Hydrogenated

Let’s look at the coffee butter on the market.  Most contain hydrogenated vegetable oils  It looks great, smells wonderful that is true. It must be less expensive to produce and that means higher profit margins for the producer.  Soap & More manufactures their own coffee butter using refined coconut oil (no smell and a hard oil) combined with fair trade coffee infused MCT oil and coffee essential oil.  This is what makes us stand out as we continue to march to the beat of our own drum.  Most aloe vera butter on the market is also manufactured with the use of hydrogenated vegetable oils.  Keep an eye out for the inferior oils and butters.

Vegetable oils contain a number of nutrients that play an essential role in the metabolism of our skin.  They are at the basis for having lovely skin.  This is a good reason why one should make use of the vegetable oil properties, especially by mixing up their skincare uses, but one must first understand the way they should be extracted in order to get the best out of their use!

Vegetable oil is qualified as virgin or refined according to the way it has been extracted.  If the extraction is done by pressing, then it is considered virgin oil.  If the extraction is carried out by solvents, then it is called refined oil, which allows one to obtain a “standardized” oil by modifying its fatty acids.  But for the case of “virgin” oils, one gets an oil that is pure, without any foreign substances, exclusively purified through physical processes, and cannot have been submitted to any other treatments.

After refinement, degradation of the nutritional value occurs.  This means the natural Vitamin E  with its antioxidant regenerative and anti-inflammatory properties are gone.  The loss of the biological activity of essential fatty acids which are the base for a hydrated, plump, and dense skin, that is supple and luminous occurs.  The beta-carotene, a powerful antioxidant element is degraded as well as the disappearance of phospholipids and sterols that play a key role in cellular growth and the function of the skin’s plasma membrane.

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Natural Silicone Replacement

Want thicker healthier hair that feels great without using damaging silicones in your hair care products.  Give this product a try.  Guaranteed to help.

Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed is produced from the seeds of Adansonia digitata, the upside down tree from Africa.

Silicone builds up on the hair and is very difficult to wash out.  It coats the hair and will not allow nutrients to enter therefore weighting the hair down.  Do your own search on google to see how damaging silicones can be to hair. It can be washed out with a high foaming surfactant however that too can be damaging.

Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed offers one of the most powerful hair repair complexes among all of the vegetable proteins.  With its unique combination of hair loving amino acids, especially Cysteine, Methionine, and Phenylalanine which combined offer exceptional damage recovery, conditioning, and nourishment for improved overall hair care performance. When choosing a single protein for hair repair, and resilience, Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed is the best there is.  Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed is high enough in the conditioning amino acids to offer conditioning performance that is comparable to the silicones.

With Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed hair will look and feel softer, and will be smoother, even when subjected to harsh chemical treatments and excessive environmental stress due to the high level of conditioning amino acids.

Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed is the perfect choice for all of your hair conditioners, leave on treatments, pre-blow drying or pre-flat iron treatments & hair repair systems due to the high levels of protective amino acids.

Baobab Protein, Hydrolyzed offers excellent flowing benefits to hair due to the high level of nourishing and strengthening, amino acids which improve elasticity and increase hair strength.

TIP:  Remove glycerin from your formula to avoid frizziness 

ATTRIBUTES

  • frizz control
  • helps to repair damage
  • improved manageability
  • nourishing from root to tip
  • imparts conditioning benefits
  • increased strength and elasticity
  • botanical alternative to Dimethicone
  • protection from environmental stress
  • leaves hair softer, stronger, smoother

APPLICATIONS

  • Hair Care
    • Shampoos
    • Conditioners
    • Styling Aids
    • Prep Treatments
      • heat protection
        • blow drying
        • dryer treatments
        • curling / flat irons
    • Leave On Treatments
    • Protein Packs
    • Curly Hair Protection
    • Pre – Post Chemical Treatments